Tiling Tips

Tiling Walls

What tools do I need?

Spirit level/Straight edge
Battens
Trowels/Spreader (gauging & notched)
Grout float or grout squeegee
Tile cutters
Tile scriber/combination cutter
Tile rubbing block
Tile nippers

Tile saw
Hammer & Nails
Sponge & Clean, dry, soft cloth
Tape measure
Tile trim
Tile Spacers
Pencil Paper & Calculator
Gloves & Safety glasses

How Many Tiles Do I Need?

A simple way to work out how many wall tiles you will need is to measure the height of the wall and then measure the height of one the tiles you intend to use. You should then be able to estimate how many tiles high you will need to go.

If it works out that you need half or part tiles to fill the space, make sure you count them as whole tiles in order to make sure you have enough!

Repeat the process for the width of the wall and width of the tile.Then multiply the number of tiles high by the number of tiles wide. This should give you the quantity of tiles you need to tile the wall.

Repeat the process for the rest of the room taking into consideration doorways and windows etc.

Border Tiles
If you are going to fix a listello or dado around the room then you should:

measure the perimeter of the room
measure the length of the dado/listello tile
divide the room measurement by the tile measurement
add an extra tile for each corner the border travels around to allow for wastage

How do I prepare the surface?

Preparation is everything. For a perfectly tiled wall the surface underneath should be smooth and crack free. Your surface should also be strong & stable enough to support the tiles you are going to fix. Here is a quick guide to the preparation of the most common surfaces (or substrates as they are also known)

Surface	Preparation
Plaster	Leave new plaster for 4 weeks. Brush shiny plaster with stiff bristled brush and remove any dust. Ensure old finish coat plaster is sound prior to fixing tiles.
Plasterboard, fibre or cement boards	Boards should be securely screwed to a timber framework at 300mm centres, horizontally and vertically, to provide a rigid substrate.
Existing tiles	Check they are well bonded to the wall & are free from dust and grease. Score existing tiles to aid adhesion.
Paintwork or wallpaper	Loose paint, emulsion paint, loose plaster and all wallpaper must be removed before commencing tiling. Score any gloss paint. Remove any flaky paint by scraping or sanding -do not use paint stripper as it will react with the adhesive.
New dense concrete, concrete blocks or bricks	Leave these surfaces for 6 weeks. Check for suitability prior to application. If in doubt check with us for advice.

If you are in any doubt whether primer is needed we suggest universal Tilers Primer.

Due to the wide range of tiles available it is VERY important to choose the correct adhesive & grout suitable for the type of tile used. Please ask us for advice if you are unsure what to use.

Where do I start tiling?

As a general rule, tiling should be set out from the centre of the wall. This means that there are two options:
1. either the centre of the tile in the centre of the wall, or
2. the centre joint between the two tiles positioned either side of the centre line.

A measuring gauge will help you plan the position of your tiles. To make the measuring gauge, take a length of timber and mark the width of your tiles including the spacers along it. Check each option to see which gives the most advantageous cuts to the ends at each side of the wall, the window and the border design. Fixing battens will help you to keep the tiling straight.

Find the lowest point you are tiling to, e.g. a skirting board, position the
nearest full tile at this point, mark above the tile, and using a spirit level, draw a level line. Nail a batten to the wall below the line to work to. Ensure that the batten is level because your first row of tiles will rest on it. Draw your centre line as a start point with the help of a spirit level to check the vertical line is straight. Either fix a vertical batten as a guide or use your pencil line to tile up to. Start your tiling where the two vertical and horizontal lines meet, in the centre.

Fix the whole tiles first - we will fix the cut tiles afterwards.

To spread the adhesive, hold your trowel or spreader at a 45° angle. Apply the adhesive to form straight ribs. Apply an area of adhesive to cover several tiles but no more than you will be able to tile within 20 minutes. point chosen on your wall. Do not dot the corners of a tile, this may cause crazing or cracking of the tile when the adhesive shrinks to pull the tile to the surface!!!

Press the tiles firmly and evenly into the adhesive using a twisting/sliding action ensuring that the adhesive forms a strong bond to the back of the tile.

If the adhesive forms a skin before you have managed to place a tile, remove and replace with new.
Remove any guide battens and spacers carefully after 12 hours.

Use a tile trim to give a neat finish at tile edges and corners. Tile trim is available in various thicknesses to accommodate the different depths of tile and is bedded into the tile adhesive. Ask us for more details.

Once you have tiled the area that require whole tiles you are then ready to tile the areas requiring cut tiles.

How Do I Cut Tiles?

To cut a tile, mark the front of the tile and score the glazed side of the tile to break the glaze using a tile scriber and a rule or use a thin rail cutter. Tile nippers and saws can be used to cut corners or curves out of tiles.

When Do I Start Grouting?

If you have completed all the tiling and allowed the adhesive to dry out for 24 hours (or 72 hours minimum when tiling onto tile) you are then ready to start grouting. Check that the joints are dry and free of adhesive residue or dust.

Working in small areas, use a grout float to fill the joint with grout. Immediately clean off the grout using the grout float, strike off excess grout at 45° using a clean fine sponge. Polish tiles with a soft, dry cloth. If you leave the grout to dry on the surface of the tile not only will it impair the appearance of your lovely tiles but it will also be more difficult to remove!!

NB: Epoxy grouts (recommended for use on work tops) require a different type of application, refer to the packaging instructions.

You should not use a newly tiled shower for 14 days after grouting.

Movement Joints and Sealing

Joints between tiles and baths, sinks, work tops etc. should be sealed to prevent water leaking behind fixtures with a Proprietary Silicone Sealant. Sealant should also be applied to all internal corners. Allow a bead width of 6mm for the sealant.

Tiling Floors

What tools do I need?

Spirit level
Chalk line
Straightedge & Setsquare
Plywood or Dukkaboard
(if the floor needs lining)
Trowels (gauging and notched)
Grout float/squeegee
Tile cutters/nippers

Tile rubbing block
Sponge
Tape measure
Tile saw
Tile Spacers (at least 3mm)
Pencil
Clean, dry, soft cloth

Where DO I Start Tiling?
As a general rule, tiling should be set out from the centre of the floor. This means that there are two options:
1. either the centre of the tile in the centre of the floor, or
2. the centre joint between the two tiles positioned either side of the centre line.

A measuring gauge will help you plan the position of your tiles. To make a measuring gauge, take a length of timber and mark the width of your tiles including the spacers along it, remember floor tiles require at least a 3mm grout joint, so use the correct sized spacers. Use the measuring gauge to help you set out the position of your tile s h orizontally. The measuring gauge will help you to avoid any small difficult cuts, which will spoil the appearance.

Check the squareness of the room. Mark a line along the centre of the room lengthways and widthways. Use your measuring gauge to view how the tiles will work out from the centre line paying particular attention to how they will look from the doorway. The level of your floor will be raised when the tiles are down, so remove all fixtures and fittings if possible.

How Do I Fix The Tiles?
Follow the instructions on the packet to mix the adhesive. For best results use the spreader / trowel that is reccomended for the type of adhesive. Always use the recommended trowel or spreader, this will ensure you achieve the best adhesive coverage and that no gaps are left under the tiles. Holding the trowel/spreader at a 45° angle, apply the adhesive to form straight ribs. Only apply an area of adhesive to cover several tiles but no more than you will be able to tile within about 20 minutes. If the adhesive forms a skin before you have managed to place a tile, remove the adhesive and replace with some fresh. If the floor dips slightly you can if needed apply a thicker layer of no more then 2mm of adhesive.

Pressing the tiles securely and evenly into the adhesive, use a twisting action to ensure that the adhesive forms a strong bond to the back of the tile. Place a spacer (min. 3mm) between each tile to allow an even space for the grout joint.

While you are tiling check that the tile surface is flat with a spirit level . It is also worth lifting an occaisional tile to make sure there is a solid bed of adhesive on the back of it. Clean off any surface adhesive with a damp sponge before it dries & remove any excess from the grout joints. Cleaning surplus adhesive & grout as you go along saves time and effort later on as it is far more difficult to remove once it has dried!!!

Floors should not be walked on for at least 24 hours when using a standard cementitious adhesive and 2-5 hours when using a rapid setting adhesive.

Tiling Walls ~ Tiling Floors